Alkimists
exfoliant

Dr. Dennis Gross

Alpha Beta Extra Strength Daily Peel

Two-step daily peel pad combining five acids with retinol and antioxidants for accelerated resurfacing.

Ingredient Snapshot

6 beneficial ingredients detected with no known safety concerns.

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5 ingredients to watch Glycolic Acid (AHA), Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), BHA / Salicylic Acid, Apple AHA, Vitamin A / Retinol may cause sensitivity in some skin types.

Ingredients (11)

Glycolic Acid(Glycolic Acid (AHA))

Benefits

  • Exfoliates the outermost layer of dead skin cells to improve texture and tone
  • Stimulates collagen synthesis with repeated use
  • Improves the appearance of fine lines and hyperpigmentation

Potential concerns

  • !Increases photosensitivity — daily SPF use is strongly recommended
  • !May cause stinging, redness, or irritation, especially on sensitive skin
  • !At high concentrations (>10%) can cause chemical burns if misused

Sources

FDA

CIR Safety Assessment of Alpha Hydroxy Acids as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel reviewed glycolic acid as part of its alpha hydroxy acid assessment. It is safe as used in cosmetics as an exfoliant and pH adjuster. At active exfoliant concentrations the Panel recommended sun protection advisories due to increased photosensitivity. Stinging or irritation may occur, especially in sensitive skin.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Glycolic Acid: CTPA lists glycolic acid as a permitted alpha hydroxy acid in cosmetics. At active concentrations, EU Cosmetics Regulation requires advisory labelling on increased sun sensitivity. At low concentrations it functions as a pH adjuster and is considered safe.

Lactic Acid(Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA))

Benefits

  • Exfoliates by loosening dead skin cell bonds
  • Humectant that attracts and retains moisture
  • Improves skin texture and tone
  • Acts as a pH adjuster in formulations

Potential concerns

  • !Increases UV sensitivity — daily sunscreen use is recommended
  • !May cause irritation, redness, or stinging at higher concentrations

Sources

FDA

CIR Safety Assessment of Alpha Hydroxy Acids as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel reviewed lactic acid as part of its AHA assessment. It is safe as a pH adjuster and gentle exfoliant. At active exfoliant concentrations, the Panel recommended sun protection advisories due to increased photosensitivity potential.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Lactic Acid: CTPA lists lactic acid as a safe alpha hydroxy acid used as a pH adjuster and skin-conditioning agent. At higher active concentrations, CTPA advises labelling for potential increased sun sensitivity, consistent with EU Cosmetics Regulation requirements for AHA products.

Salicylic Acid(BHA / Salicylic Acid)

Benefits

  • Oil-soluble acid that penetrates and unclogs pores
  • Effective treatment for acne, blackheads, and whiteheads
  • Anti-inflammatory — reduces redness around blemishes
  • Exfoliates inside the pore lining

Potential concerns

  • !Can cause dryness, peeling, and irritation with overuse
  • !Not recommended during pregnancy at high concentrations
  • !May increase photosensitivity

Sources

FDA

FDA OTC Monograph — Salicylic Acid Acne Products: Salicylic acid is approved as an OTC active ingredient for acne treatment at 0.5-2% concentrations. It functions as a keratolytic agent, promoting shedding of the outer skin layer and unclogging pores.

MFDS

Korean MFDS Salicylic Acid Use Standards in Cosmetics: Korean MFDS restricts salicylic acid to a maximum of 0.5% in rinse-off cosmetics and 2% in leave-on products for acne. Products must include a warning to avoid use during pregnancy and to use sun protection.

Malic Acid(Apple AHA)

Benefits

  • AHA exfoliant naturally found in apples
  • Brightens skin tone and reduces dark spots
  • Gentler than glycolic acid due to its larger molecular size

Potential concerns

  • !May cause irritation in sensitive skin
  • !Increases photosensitivity — use with SPF

Sources

FDA

CIR Safety Assessment of Alpha Hydroxy Acids as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel reviewed malic acid as part of its alpha hydroxy acid assessment and found it safe as used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster and mild exfoliant. At active concentrations, sun protection advisories are recommended due to potential increased photosensitivity.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Malic Acid: CTPA lists malic acid as a safe alpha hydroxy acid used as a pH adjuster and skin-conditioning agent. At active exfoliant concentrations, labelling for potential sun sensitivity is advised consistent with EU Cosmetics Regulation requirements for AHA-containing products.

Citric Acid

Benefits

  • Fine-tunes formula pH and maintains stability

Sources

FDA

CIR Safety Assessment of Alpha Hydroxy Acids as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel reviewed citric acid as part of its assessment of alpha hydroxy acids. It is safe at concentrations used as a pH adjuster. At higher active exfoliant concentrations, the Panel recommended consumer advisories on increased photosensitivity.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Citric Acid: CTPA lists citric acid as a safe, permitted cosmetic ingredient functioning as a pH adjuster. At higher concentrations where it acts as an active AHA exfoliant, CTPA advises appropriate labelling regarding potential skin sensitivity.

Ascorbic Acid(Vitamin C / L-Ascorbic Acid)

Benefits

  • Potent antioxidant that neutralises free radicals from UV and pollution
  • Inhibits melanin production to brighten skin and fade dark spots
  • Stimulates collagen synthesis for firmer skin
  • Enhances the effectiveness of sunscreen

Potential concerns

  • !Unstable molecule that oxidises quickly — reduces efficacy once formula turns orange/brown
  • !High concentrations (>15%) may cause irritation or stinging
  • !Can interact with niacinamide forming nicotinic acid (redness) in some formulations

Sources

FDA

Vitamin C Derivatives in Cosmetics — FDA Guidance: Ascorbic acid and its derivatives are permitted cosmetic ingredients. Ascorbic acid functions as an antioxidant and skin-conditioning agent and is used at concentrations typically between 5-20% in brightening formulations.

Tocopheryl Acetate(Vitamin E Acetate)

Benefits

  • Antioxidant protecting formula and skin from oxidative damage
  • Skin-conditioning agent

Potential concerns

  • !Rare cases of allergic contact dermatitis reported

Sources

FDA

CIR Safety Assessment of Tocopherols and Tocopheryl Esters as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel found tocopheryl acetate safe as used in cosmetic formulations. It functions as an antioxidant and skin-conditioning agent, protecting formulas and skin from oxidative damage. The Panel noted rare reports of contact sensitisation at very high concentrations.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Tocopheryl Acetate: CTPA lists tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E ester) as a safe skin-conditioning and antioxidant ingredient. It is widely used in cosmetics to protect against oxidative stress and is considered safe at concentrations typically used in cosmetic formulations.

Retinol(Vitamin A / Retinol)

Benefits

  • Accelerates skin cell turnover for fresher-looking skin
  • Reduces the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles
  • Fades hyperpigmentation and post-acne marks
  • Stimulates collagen and elastin production
  • Improves skin texture and pore appearance

Potential concerns

  • !Commonly causes initial purging, peeling, dryness, and irritation
  • !Significantly increases photosensitivity — must use SPF daily
  • !Contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding
  • !Not suitable for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin without medical guidance
  • !Interactions with other actives (AHAs, BHAs, benzoyl peroxide) can cause excessive irritation

Sources

FDA

Retinoids in Cosmetics — FDA Labeling Guidance: Retinol and its derivatives are permitted in cosmetics and have demonstrated efficacy in reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and improving skin texture through increased cell turnover.

CTPA

SCCS Opinion on Retinol and Retinyl Acetate in Cosmetics: The SCCS advises that retinol concentrations above 0.3% in face creams and 0.05% in body lotions may cause increased photosensitivity. Products must include an instruction to use SPF protection and avoid use during pregnancy.

Sodium Hyaluronate(Hyaluronic Acid Salt)

Benefits

  • Powerful humectant holding up to 1000x its weight in water
  • Improves skin hydration and plumping
  • Biocompatible — naturally found in skin

Sources

FDA

FDA Briefing on Hyaluronic Acid in Topical Formulations: Sodium hyaluronate is generally recognized as safe (GRAS) as a cosmetic ingredient. It functions as an effective humectant and skin-conditioning agent suitable for all skin types.

Phenoxyethanol

Benefits

  • Broad-spectrum preservative preventing microbial contamination

Potential concerns

  • !Potential skin sensitizer in some individuals

Sources

FDA

FDA — Phenoxyethanol in Cosmetics: FDA has reviewed phenoxyethanol as a cosmetic preservative and considers it safe at concentrations up to 1.0% in cosmetic products. FDA advises caution in products used around the mouth of infants.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Phenoxyethanol: CTPA confirms phenoxyethanol is a permitted cosmetic preservative under EU Cosmetics Regulation at a maximum concentration of 1.0%, and is considered safe for use in both rinse-off and leave-on products.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Benefits

  • Conditions and softens skin
  • Boosts preservative efficacy

Sources

FDA

CIR Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel found ethylhexylglycerin safe as used in cosmetics. It functions as a skin-conditioning agent and preservative booster enhancing the efficacy of other preservatives. No significant irritation or sensitisation was identified at cosmetic concentrations.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Ethylhexylglycerin: CTPA lists ethylhexylglycerin as a safe skin-conditioning agent and preservative enhancer. It is used in cosmetics to improve formula feel and boost preservation systems, and is considered non-irritating for most skin types.

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