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Dr. Dennis Gross

Alpha Beta Glow Pad Self-Tanner

Self-tanning pad that combines DHA with AHAs and niacinamide for an even, gradual tan with simultaneous skin-care benefits.

Ingredient Snapshot

6 beneficial ingredients detected with no known safety concerns.

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5 ingredients to watch DHA / Self-Tanning Active, Erythrulose (Gentle Self-Tanner), Glycolic Acid (AHA), Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), Phenoxyethanol may cause sensitivity in some skin types.

Ingredients (11)

Dihydroxyacetone(DHA / Self-Tanning Active)

Benefits

  • Reacts with amino acids in the stratum corneum to create a natural-looking tan
  • UV-free alternative to sun tanning

Potential concerns

  • !May generate reactive oxygen species (ROS) on skin surface after application
  • !FDA advises avoiding inhalation, eye area, and application to mucous membranes
  • !Colour may look unnatural if applied unevenly

Sources

FDA

FDA — Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as a Colour Additive in Self-Tanning Products: The FDA has approved dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as a colour additive for external application in self-tanning cosmetic products. FDA advises that DHA should only be used externally on the skin and not be applied to areas around the eyes, nose, or mouth where inhalation or ingestion is possible.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Dihydroxyacetone: CTPA lists dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as a safe colour additive used in self-tanning cosmetics. It reacts with amino acids in the upper layers of the skin to produce a temporary browning effect. It is considered safe for external skin application in cosmetic self-tanning products.

Erythrulose(Erythrulose (Gentle Self-Tanner))

Benefits

  • Slower-acting ketose sugar that provides a more gradual, natural-looking tan than DHA
  • Often combined with DHA to extend tan longevity

Potential concerns

  • !May generate oxidative stress similarly to DHA

Sources

FDA

CIR/FDA Ingredient Assessment — Not Found in Regulatory Databases: No published safety assessment was found for this ingredient in the CIR (FDA advisory panel), CTPA, or MFDS regulatory databases at the time of this review. This does not necessarily indicate a safety concern — many commonly used cosmetic ingredients have not been individually assessed by these bodies.

Glycolic Acid(Glycolic Acid (AHA))

Benefits

  • Exfoliates the outermost layer of dead skin cells to improve texture and tone
  • Stimulates collagen synthesis with repeated use
  • Improves the appearance of fine lines and hyperpigmentation

Potential concerns

  • !Increases photosensitivity — daily SPF use is strongly recommended
  • !May cause stinging, redness, or irritation, especially on sensitive skin
  • !At high concentrations (>10%) can cause chemical burns if misused

Sources

FDA

CIR Safety Assessment of Alpha Hydroxy Acids as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel reviewed glycolic acid as part of its alpha hydroxy acid assessment. It is safe as used in cosmetics as an exfoliant and pH adjuster. At active exfoliant concentrations the Panel recommended sun protection advisories due to increased photosensitivity. Stinging or irritation may occur, especially in sensitive skin.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Glycolic Acid: CTPA lists glycolic acid as a permitted alpha hydroxy acid in cosmetics. At active concentrations, EU Cosmetics Regulation requires advisory labelling on increased sun sensitivity. At low concentrations it functions as a pH adjuster and is considered safe.

Lactic Acid(Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA))

Benefits

  • Exfoliates by loosening dead skin cell bonds
  • Humectant that attracts and retains moisture
  • Improves skin texture and tone
  • Acts as a pH adjuster in formulations

Potential concerns

  • !Increases UV sensitivity — daily sunscreen use is recommended
  • !May cause irritation, redness, or stinging at higher concentrations

Sources

FDA

CIR Safety Assessment of Alpha Hydroxy Acids as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel reviewed lactic acid as part of its AHA assessment. It is safe as a pH adjuster and gentle exfoliant. At active exfoliant concentrations, the Panel recommended sun protection advisories due to increased photosensitivity potential.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Lactic Acid: CTPA lists lactic acid as a safe alpha hydroxy acid used as a pH adjuster and skin-conditioning agent. At higher active concentrations, CTPA advises labelling for potential increased sun sensitivity, consistent with EU Cosmetics Regulation requirements for AHA products.

Niacinamide(Vitamin B3)

Benefits

  • Reduces appearance of enlarged pores
  • Improves uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation
  • Strengthens the skin barrier
  • Anti-inflammatory properties help reduce redness

Potential concerns

  • !May cause flushing or redness at high concentrations in sensitive individuals

Sources

FDA

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) — FDA Cosmetic Ingredient Review: Niacinamide is considered safe for use in cosmetics. It is a well-established skin-conditioning agent with evidence supporting its role in improving skin texture, tone, and barrier function.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Niacinamide: CTPA lists niacinamide as a safe and effective skin-conditioning agent widely used across cosmetic formulations, with a strong safety profile across concentrations typically used in cosmetics (2–10%).

Glycerin

Benefits

  • Powerful humectant that draws moisture from the environment into the skin
  • Supports skin barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss

Potential concerns

  • !At very high concentrations may feel sticky on skin

Sources

FDA

FDA GRAS Database — Glycerin: Glycerin (glycerol) is affirmed as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) by the FDA. As a cosmetic ingredient, it is one of the most widely used and well-tolerated humectants, drawing moisture from the environment to the outer layers of the skin.

Sodium Hyaluronate(Hyaluronic Acid Salt)

Benefits

  • Powerful humectant that holds up to 1000x its weight in water
  • Improves skin hydration and plumping effect
  • Supports skin barrier function
  • Biocompatible — naturally found in skin tissue

Sources

FDA

FDA Briefing on Hyaluronic Acid in Topical Formulations: Sodium hyaluronate is generally recognized as safe (GRAS) as a cosmetic ingredient. It functions as an effective humectant and skin-conditioning agent suitable for all skin types.

Allantoin

Benefits

  • Soothing agent that calms irritation and supports skin healing
  • Mild keratolytic that softens skin and improves texture
  • Well tolerated by sensitive skin

Sources

FDA

FDA OTC Skin Protectant Active Ingredient — Allantoin: The FDA recognises allantoin as a safe and effective OTC skin protectant active ingredient at concentrations of 0.5–2.0%. It soothes and protects irritated skin and helps relieve minor skin irritation from chapping, chafing, and wind.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Allantoin: CTPA lists allantoin as a safe, soothing skin-conditioning agent with a long history of safe use as a skin protectant. It is well tolerated by sensitive and reactive skin types.

Panthenol(Panthenol (Provitamin B5))

Benefits

  • Provitamin B5 that is converted to pantothenic acid in the skin, supporting normal cellular function
  • Humectant that attracts and retains moisture in the skin
  • Soothing agent that helps reduce inflammation and supports skin barrier repair

Sources

FDA

CIR Safety Assessment of Panthenol as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel found panthenol (provitamin B5) safe as used in cosmetic formulations. It functions as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent, improving skin hydration and supporting barrier function, with no significant irritation or sensitisation concerns.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Panthenol: CTPA lists panthenol as a safe humectant and skin-conditioning agent. As provitamin B5, it supports healthy skin cell metabolism. It is well tolerated and considered safe for sensitive skin.

Phenoxyethanol

Benefits

  • Broad-spectrum preservative that prevents microbial contamination
  • Effective at low concentrations up to 1%

Potential concerns

  • !Potential skin sensitizer in some individuals
  • !FDA advises against use near the mouth or nipple area for infants due to risk of CNS depression

Sources

FDA

FDA — Phenoxyethanol in Cosmetics: FDA has reviewed phenoxyethanol as a cosmetic preservative and considers it safe at concentrations up to 1.0% in cosmetic products. FDA advises caution in products used around the mouth of infants.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Phenoxyethanol: CTPA confirms phenoxyethanol is a permitted cosmetic preservative under EU Cosmetics Regulation at a maximum concentration of 1.0%, and is considered safe for use in both rinse-off and leave-on products.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Benefits

  • Skin-conditioning agent and preservative booster
  • Enhances the antimicrobial activity of the preservative system

Sources

FDA

CIR Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel found ethylhexylglycerin safe as used in cosmetics. It functions as a skin-conditioning agent and preservative booster enhancing the efficacy of other preservatives. No significant irritation or sensitisation was identified at cosmetic concentrations.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Ethylhexylglycerin: CTPA lists ethylhexylglycerin as a safe skin-conditioning agent and preservative enhancer. It is used in cosmetics to improve formula feel and boost preservation systems, and is considered non-irritating for most skin types.

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