Dr. Dennis Gross
Alpha Beta Extra Strength Daily Peel
Two-step daily peel pad combining five acids with retinol and antioxidants for accelerated resurfacing.
Ingredient Snapshot
6 beneficial ingredients detected with no known safety concerns.
5 ingredients to watch — AHA / Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid / Milk AHA, BHA / Salicylic Acid, Apple AHA, Vitamin A / Retinol may cause sensitivity in some skin types.
Ingredients (11)
Glycolic Acid(AHA / Glycolic Acid)
Benefits
- ✓Exfoliates dead skin cells for smoother texture
- ✓Brightens dull complexion and fades dark spots
- ✓Stimulates collagen production over time
- ✓Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Potential concerns
- !Can cause stinging, redness, and irritation, especially on sensitive skin
- !Significantly increases photosensitivity — always apply SPF during the day
- !Prolonged or high-concentration use may damage the skin barrier
Lactic Acid(Lactic Acid / Milk AHA)
Benefits
- ✓Gentle chemical exfoliation suitable for sensitive skin
- ✓Improves skin hydration and moisture retention
- ✓Brightens uneven skin tone
- ✓Larger molecule than glycolic acid — lower penetration, less irritating
Potential concerns
- !May cause irritation at higher concentrations
- !Increases skin photosensitivity — use with SPF
Salicylic Acid(BHA / Salicylic Acid)
Benefits
- ✓Oil-soluble acid that penetrates and unclogs pores
- ✓Effective treatment for acne, blackheads, and whiteheads
- ✓Anti-inflammatory — reduces redness around blemishes
- ✓Exfoliates inside the pore lining
Potential concerns
- !Can cause dryness, peeling, and irritation with overuse
- !Not recommended during pregnancy at high concentrations
- !May increase photosensitivity
Sources
FDA OTC Monograph — Salicylic Acid Acne Products: Salicylic acid is approved as an OTC active ingredient for acne treatment at 0.5-2% concentrations. It functions as a keratolytic agent, promoting shedding of the outer skin layer and unclogging pores.
Korean MFDS Salicylic Acid Use Standards in Cosmetics: Korean MFDS restricts salicylic acid to a maximum of 0.5% in rinse-off cosmetics and 2% in leave-on products for acne. Products must include a warning to avoid use during pregnancy and to use sun protection.
Malic Acid(Apple AHA)
Benefits
- ✓AHA exfoliant naturally found in apples
- ✓Brightens skin tone and reduces dark spots
- ✓Gentler than glycolic acid due to its larger molecular size
Potential concerns
- !May cause irritation in sensitive skin
- !Increases photosensitivity — use with SPF
Citric Acid
Benefits
- ✓pH adjuster that keeps formulas stable and effective
- ✓Mild AHA exfoliant at higher concentrations
- ✓Antioxidant properties
Potential concerns
- !Can cause irritation when used at high concentrations as an active exfoliant
Ascorbic Acid(Vitamin C / L-Ascorbic Acid)
Benefits
- ✓Potent antioxidant that neutralises free radicals from UV and pollution
- ✓Inhibits melanin production to brighten skin and fade dark spots
- ✓Stimulates collagen synthesis for firmer skin
- ✓Enhances the effectiveness of sunscreen
Potential concerns
- !Unstable molecule that oxidises quickly — reduces efficacy once formula turns orange/brown
- !High concentrations (>15%) may cause irritation or stinging
- !Can interact with niacinamide forming nicotinic acid (redness) in some formulations
Sources
Vitamin C Derivatives in Cosmetics — FDA Guidance: Ascorbic acid and its derivatives are permitted cosmetic ingredients. Ascorbic acid functions as an antioxidant and skin-conditioning agent and is used at concentrations typically between 5-20% in brightening formulations.
Tocopheryl Acetate(Vitamin E Ester)
Benefits
- ✓Antioxidant that protects cells from oxidative stress
- ✓Moisturises and conditions skin
- ✓Helps stabilise other antioxidants such as Vitamin C
- ✓Supports skin healing and reduces inflammation
Potential concerns
- !Rare cases of contact dermatitis reported, particularly with high concentrations
Retinol(Vitamin A / Retinol)
Benefits
- ✓Accelerates skin cell turnover for fresher-looking skin
- ✓Reduces the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles
- ✓Fades hyperpigmentation and post-acne marks
- ✓Stimulates collagen and elastin production
- ✓Improves skin texture and pore appearance
Potential concerns
- !Commonly causes initial purging, peeling, dryness, and irritation
- !Significantly increases photosensitivity — must use SPF daily
- !Contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding
- !Not suitable for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin without medical guidance
- !Interactions with other actives (AHAs, BHAs, benzoyl peroxide) can cause excessive irritation
Sources
Retinoids in Cosmetics — FDA Labeling Guidance: Retinol and its derivatives are permitted in cosmetics and have demonstrated efficacy in reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and improving skin texture through increased cell turnover.
SCCS Opinion on Retinol and Retinyl Acetate in Cosmetics: The SCCS advises that retinol concentrations above 0.3% in face creams and 0.05% in body lotions may cause increased photosensitivity. Products must include an instruction to use SPF protection and avoid use during pregnancy.
Sodium Hyaluronate(Hyaluronic Acid Salt)
Benefits
- ✓Low-molecular-weight hyaluronate penetrates deeper into the dermis
- ✓Holds up to 1000× its weight in water for intense hydration
- ✓Plumps skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines
- ✓Suitable for all skin types including oily and acne-prone
Sources
FDA Briefing on Hyaluronic Acid in Topical Formulations: Sodium hyaluronate is generally recognized as safe (GRAS) as a cosmetic ingredient. It functions as an effective humectant and skin-conditioning agent suitable for all skin types.
Phenoxyethanol
Benefits
- ✓Broad-spectrum preservative that protects the product from bacterial and fungal contamination
- ✓Considered one of the safer alternatives to parabens
- ✓Effective at low concentrations (≤1%)
Potential concerns
- !At concentrations above 1%, may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions
- !Some individuals with sensitive skin may react to preservatives in general
Sources
FDA — Phenoxyethanol in Cosmetics: FDA has reviewed phenoxyethanol as a cosmetic preservative and considers it safe at concentrations up to 1.0% in cosmetic products. FDA advises caution in products used around the mouth of infants.
CTPA Ingredient Library — Phenoxyethanol: CTPA confirms phenoxyethanol is a permitted cosmetic preservative under EU Cosmetics Regulation at a maximum concentration of 1.0%, and is considered safe for use in both rinse-off and leave-on products.
Ethylhexylglycerin
Benefits
- ✓Preservative booster that enhances the efficacy of other preservatives
- ✓Skin-conditioning agent with moisturising properties
Potential concerns
- !Rarely causes skin irritation in hypersensitive individuals
Ingredients listed in order of concentration (highest first).
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