Dr. Barbara Sturm
Firming Sleeping Cream
Overnight firming cream with niacinamide, squalane, and hyaluronate to restore and repair skin while you sleep.
Ingredient Snapshot
7 beneficial ingredients detected with no known safety concerns.
1 ingredient to watch — Phenoxyethanol may cause sensitivity in some skin types.
Ingredients (8)
Niacinamide(Vitamin B3)
Benefits
- ✓Reduces appearance of enlarged pores
- ✓Improves uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation
- ✓Strengthens the skin barrier
- ✓Anti-inflammatory properties help reduce redness
Potential concerns
- !May cause flushing or redness at high concentrations in sensitive individuals
Sources
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) — FDA Cosmetic Ingredient Review: Niacinamide is considered safe for use in cosmetics. It is a well-established skin-conditioning agent with evidence supporting its role in improving skin texture, tone, and barrier function.
CTPA Ingredient Library — Niacinamide: CTPA lists niacinamide as a safe and effective skin-conditioning agent widely used across cosmetic formulations, with a strong safety profile across concentrations typically used in cosmetics (2–10%).
Glycerin
Benefits
- ✓Powerful humectant that draws moisture from the environment into the skin
- ✓Supports skin barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss
Potential concerns
- !At very high concentrations may feel sticky on skin
Sources
FDA GRAS Database — Glycerin: Glycerin (glycerol) is affirmed as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) by the FDA. As a cosmetic ingredient, it is one of the most widely used and well-tolerated humectants, drawing moisture from the environment to the outer layers of the skin.
Squalane
Benefits
- ✓Lightweight, fast-absorbing emollient that mimics skin's natural sebum
- ✓Provides antioxidant protection
- ✓Non-comedogenic — will not clog pores
- ✓Helps reduce transepidermal water loss
- ✓Excellent tolerance profile, ideal for sensitive skin
Sources
CIR Safety Assessment of Squalane as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel found squalane safe as used in cosmetics. It is a saturated hydrocarbon emollient that closely resembles squalene produced naturally by human sebaceous glands. It is well tolerated and non-irritating.
CTPA Ingredient Library — Squalane: CTPA lists squalane as a safe emollient and skin-conditioning agent. It is a skin-identical lipid that provides moisturisation without greasiness and is considered non-comedogenic and well tolerated by all skin types.
Sodium Hyaluronate(Hyaluronic Acid Salt)
Benefits
- ✓Powerful humectant that holds up to 1000x its weight in water
- ✓Improves skin hydration and plumping effect
- ✓Supports skin barrier function
- ✓Biocompatible — naturally found in skin tissue
Sources
FDA Briefing on Hyaluronic Acid in Topical Formulations: Sodium hyaluronate is generally recognized as safe (GRAS) as a cosmetic ingredient. It functions as an effective humectant and skin-conditioning agent suitable for all skin types.
Tocopherol(Tocopherol (Vitamin E))
Benefits
- ✓Antioxidant that protects skin and formula from oxidative damage
- ✓Skin-conditioning agent that supports barrier health
Potential concerns
- !Rare cases of contact dermatitis have been reported in individuals sensitive to tocopherol
Sources
CTPA — Tocopherol (Vitamin E) in Cosmetics: Tocopherol and its esters are widely used antioxidants in cosmetic formulations. The CTPA confirms that tocopherol has an excellent safety profile in cosmetic applications and provides meaningful protection against oxidative degradation of skin lipids.
Citric Acid
Benefits
- ✓Adjusts product pH to the optimal range for skin compatibility and AHA stability
- ✓Acts as a mild chelating agent to protect formula integrity
Potential concerns
- !High concentrations can be irritating to sensitive skin
Sources
CIR Safety Assessment of Alpha Hydroxy Acids as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel reviewed citric acid as part of its assessment of alpha hydroxy acids. It is safe at concentrations used as a pH adjuster. At higher active exfoliant concentrations, the Panel recommended consumer advisories on increased photosensitivity.
CTPA Ingredient Library — Citric Acid: CTPA lists citric acid as a safe, permitted cosmetic ingredient functioning as a pH adjuster. At higher concentrations where it acts as an active AHA exfoliant, CTPA advises appropriate labelling regarding potential skin sensitivity.
Phenoxyethanol
Benefits
- ✓Broad-spectrum preservative that prevents microbial contamination
- ✓Effective at low concentrations up to 1%
Potential concerns
- !Potential skin sensitizer in some individuals
- !FDA advises against use near the mouth or nipple area for infants due to risk of CNS depression
Sources
FDA — Phenoxyethanol in Cosmetics: FDA has reviewed phenoxyethanol as a cosmetic preservative and considers it safe at concentrations up to 1.0% in cosmetic products. FDA advises caution in products used around the mouth of infants.
CTPA Ingredient Library — Phenoxyethanol: CTPA confirms phenoxyethanol is a permitted cosmetic preservative under EU Cosmetics Regulation at a maximum concentration of 1.0%, and is considered safe for use in both rinse-off and leave-on products.
Chlorphenesin
Benefits
- ✓Preservative with antimicrobial activity against bacteria and fungi
Potential concerns
- !Rare contact allergy has been reported
Sources
CTPA Ingredient Library — Chlorphenesin: Chlorphenesin is a permitted cosmetic preservative under EU Cosmetics Regulation (max 0.3% in rinse-off, max 0.2% in leave-on products). CTPA considers it safe when used within these limits.
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