Alkimists
mask

Dr. Dennis Gross

Vitamin C Lactic Biocellulose Mask

Vitamin C and lactic acid biocellulose sheet mask to brighten, exfoliate, and deeply hydrate in 20 minutes.

Ingredient Snapshot

7 beneficial ingredients detected with no known safety concerns.

!

1 ingredient to watch Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) may cause sensitivity in some skin types.

Ingredients (8)

Ascorbic Acid(Vitamin C / L-Ascorbic Acid)

Benefits

  • Potent antioxidant that neutralises free radicals from UV and pollution
  • Inhibits melanin production to brighten skin and fade dark spots
  • Stimulates collagen synthesis for firmer skin
  • Enhances the effectiveness of sunscreen

Potential concerns

  • !Unstable molecule that oxidises quickly — reduces efficacy once formula turns orange/brown
  • !High concentrations (>15%) may cause irritation or stinging
  • !Can interact with niacinamide forming nicotinic acid (redness) in some formulations

Sources

FDA

Vitamin C Derivatives in Cosmetics — FDA Guidance: Ascorbic acid and its derivatives are permitted cosmetic ingredients. Ascorbic acid functions as an antioxidant and skin-conditioning agent and is used at concentrations typically between 5-20% in brightening formulations.

Lactic Acid(Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA))

Benefits

  • Exfoliates by loosening dead skin cell bonds
  • Humectant that attracts and retains moisture
  • Improves skin texture and tone
  • Acts as a pH adjuster in formulations

Potential concerns

  • !Increases UV sensitivity — daily sunscreen use is recommended
  • !May cause irritation, redness, or stinging at higher concentrations

Sources

FDA

CIR Safety Assessment of Alpha Hydroxy Acids as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel reviewed lactic acid as part of its AHA assessment. It is safe as a pH adjuster and gentle exfoliant. At active exfoliant concentrations, the Panel recommended sun protection advisories due to increased photosensitivity potential.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Lactic Acid: CTPA lists lactic acid as a safe alpha hydroxy acid used as a pH adjuster and skin-conditioning agent. At higher active concentrations, CTPA advises labelling for potential increased sun sensitivity, consistent with EU Cosmetics Regulation requirements for AHA products.

Glycerin(Glycerol)

Benefits

  • Humectant preventing cleansing-related dryness
  • Keeps skin hydrated post-wash

Sources

FDA

FDA GRAS Database — Glycerin: Glycerin (glycerol) is affirmed as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) by the FDA. As a cosmetic ingredient, it is one of the most widely used and well-tolerated humectants, drawing moisture from the environment to the outer layers of the skin.

Sodium Hyaluronate(Hyaluronic Acid Salt)

Benefits

  • Powerful humectant holding up to 1000x its weight in water
  • Improves skin hydration and plumping
  • Biocompatible — naturally found in skin

Sources

FDA

FDA Briefing on Hyaluronic Acid in Topical Formulations: Sodium hyaluronate is generally recognized as safe (GRAS) as a cosmetic ingredient. It functions as an effective humectant and skin-conditioning agent suitable for all skin types.

Allantoin

Benefits

  • Soothing agent that calms irritation and supports skin healing
  • Mild keratolytic that softens skin and improves texture
  • Well tolerated by sensitive skin

Sources

FDA

FDA OTC Skin Protectant Active Ingredient — Allantoin: The FDA recognises allantoin as a safe and effective OTC skin protectant active ingredient at concentrations of 0.5–2.0%. It soothes and protects irritated skin and helps relieve minor skin irritation from chapping, chafing, and wind.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Allantoin: CTPA lists allantoin as a safe, soothing skin-conditioning agent with a long history of safe use as a skin protectant. It is well tolerated by sensitive and reactive skin types.

Panthenol(Vitamin B5)

Benefits

  • Deeply moisturizes and soothes
  • Promotes skin healing
  • Gentle for baby skin

Sources

FDA

CIR Safety Assessment of Panthenol as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel found panthenol (provitamin B5) safe as used in cosmetic formulations. It functions as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent, improving skin hydration and supporting barrier function, with no significant irritation or sensitisation concerns.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Panthenol: CTPA lists panthenol as a safe humectant and skin-conditioning agent. As provitamin B5, it supports healthy skin cell metabolism. It is well tolerated and considered safe for sensitive skin.

Phenoxyethanol

Benefits

  • Broad-spectrum preservative preventing microbial contamination

Potential concerns

  • !Potential skin sensitizer in some individuals

Sources

FDA

FDA — Phenoxyethanol in Cosmetics: FDA has reviewed phenoxyethanol as a cosmetic preservative and considers it safe at concentrations up to 1.0% in cosmetic products. FDA advises caution in products used around the mouth of infants.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Phenoxyethanol: CTPA confirms phenoxyethanol is a permitted cosmetic preservative under EU Cosmetics Regulation at a maximum concentration of 1.0%, and is considered safe for use in both rinse-off and leave-on products.

Ethylhexylglycerin

Benefits

  • Conditions and softens skin
  • Boosts preservative efficacy

Sources

FDA

CIR Safety Assessment of Ethylhexylglycerin as Used in Cosmetics: The CIR Expert Panel found ethylhexylglycerin safe as used in cosmetics. It functions as a skin-conditioning agent and preservative booster enhancing the efficacy of other preservatives. No significant irritation or sensitisation was identified at cosmetic concentrations.

CTPA

CTPA Ingredient Library — Ethylhexylglycerin: CTPA lists ethylhexylglycerin as a safe skin-conditioning agent and preservative enhancer. It is used in cosmetics to improve formula feel and boost preservation systems, and is considered non-irritating for most skin types.

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